If you've ever stumbled across a perfectly intact shed in the woods or your backyard, you've probably thought about trying some snake skin taxidermy to preserve that beautiful, intricate pattern. It's one of those hobbies that sounds a bit "mad scientist" at first, but it's actually a really satisfying way to appreciate nature's artwork. Whether you're a reptile keeper or just someone who appreciates the aesthetic of scales, learning how to properly preserve these skins is a game changer.
Most people see a snake skin and think it's just a bit of dry, crunchy trash. But if you handle it right, you can turn it into something that looks amazing on a wall, a belt, or even inside a shadow box. It's not as gross as people think, and you don't need a degree in biology to get it right. You just need a bit of patience and some basic supplies you can find at most hardware or drug stores.
Why Bother Preserving Snake Skins?
Let's be honest, snakes get a bad rap. But their skin is actually a marvel of engineering. When you get into snake skin taxidermy, you start to notice the tiny details you'd miss if you were just looking at a live snake from a distance. You see the way the scales overlap and how the color patterns stay even after the snake has moved on.
Preserving these skins isn't just about having a weird conversation piece on your shelf. It's a way to keep a piece of the natural world without having to keep a live animal if that's not your thing. Plus, for those who do keep snakes as pets, it's a cool way to track their growth over the years. I've seen people keep a "growth gallery" of their ball python's sheds, and it's honestly pretty impressive to see that progression from a tiny hatchling to a thick adult.
Sheds vs. Raw Hides: Know the Difference
Before you dive in, you need to know which type of skin you're working with, because the process is totally different.
First, there's the shed. This is what a snake leaves behind when it grows. It's thin, translucent, and usually looks like a long, crinkly tube. Sheds are super easy to "taxidermy" because they're already dead tissue that's been discarded. You're mostly just cleaning and flattening it.
Then, there's the raw hide. This is the actual skin from a deceased snake. If you find roadkill or if a pet passes away, this skin still has oils, fats, and flesh attached to it. This requires a real tanning process. If you don't tan a raw hide, it will eventually rot, smell terrible, and attract bugs. We're going to focus a lot on the tanning side of things because that's where the real "taxidermy" magic happens.
The Tools You'll Need to Get Started
You don't need a professional lab, but you do need a few specific things. Don't try to wing it with just water and soap; you'll end up with a moldy mess.
- Glycerin and Rubbing Alcohol: This is the "magic potion" for snake skin taxidermy. A 50/50 mix of these two will preserve the skin and keep it supple.
- A Sharp Blade: A scalpel or a very sharp utility knife is a must for opening up the skin.
- A Board for Pinning: A piece of scrap plywood or even thick foam board works great.
- Pins: Stainless steel pins or even just small nails to hold the skin flat while it dries.
- Soft Brush: To clean off any dirt or "shmoo" from the scales.
A Step-by-Step for Tanning the Hide
If you're working with a raw skin, you've got to be methodical. You can't rush the science here.
Cleaning the Skin
First, you need to get the skin off the snake if it isn't already. You'll want to make a straight cut down the belly—the side with the wide, flat scales. Once it's off, you have to "flesh" it. This means scraping away any bits of meat or fat. If you leave that stuff on there, the tanning solution won't soak in, and that spot will rot. Use a dull knife or the edge of a spoon to gently scrape it away. Be careful not to poke a hole through the skin; it's thinner than you think.
The Glycerin Soak
Once the skin is clean, it's time for the bath. Mix your glycerin and rubbing alcohol in a jar. Submerge the skin completely. You'll want to leave it in there for at least two or three days. Some people leave it for a week just to be sure. The alcohol helps the glycerin penetrate the fibers of the skin, replacing the water and oils so the skin stays flexible instead of turning into a potato chip.
Mounting and Drying Your Finished Piece
After the soak, your skin is going to feel a bit oily. That's normal. Take it out and lightly pat it dry with some paper towels. Now comes the part that requires a steady hand: pinning it out.
Lay the skin flat on your board, scale side up. Start at the head (or the top) and pin it down. Slowly work your way down the body, pulling it slightly taut—but don't stretch it so hard that you distort the pattern. You want it to look natural. Pin along the edges every inch or so to make sure it doesn't curl up as it dries.
Give it about 24 to 48 hours in a cool, dry place. When you pull the pins out, the skin should hold its shape. It should feel like soft leather. If it feels stiff or crunchy, you might need more glycerin next time, but for a first try, a little stiffness is okay.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
I've seen a lot of people mess up their first attempt at snake skin taxidermy, and it usually comes down to one of three things.
- Not cleaning the belly well enough: If there's even a tiny bit of fat left, it'll turn yellow and gross over time. Take your time with the scraping.
- Using too much heat: Never try to "speed up" the drying process with a hair dryer or by putting it in the sun. This will make the skin brittle and might even cause it to shrink or warp.
- Forgetting the scales: Snake scales are held on by a thin membrane. If you're too rough while cleaning, you'll scrub the scales right off, leaving you with a dull, matte-looking skin that's lost its luster.
Creative Ways to Display Your Work
Once you've got a finished, preserved skin, don't just leave it pinned to a piece of plywood in your garage. There are so many cool things you can do with it.
One of the most popular options is a shadow box. You can mount the skin on a piece of dark velvet or weathered wood. It looks sophisticated and keeps the dust off. If you're feeling crafty, you can use the preserved skin as an inlay for a leather belt or a wallet. Because you used the glycerin method, the skin is flexible enough to be sewn or glued onto other materials.
Another idea is to wrap it around a picture frame or use it as a backing for a preserved insect collection. The patterns in snake skin taxidermy are so geometric and perfect that they act as a great "natural" background for other displays.
Ethical Sourcing and Finding Skins
It's worth mentioning that you should always be ethical about where you get your skins. There's no need to go out and hurt wildlife just for a craft project. Roadkill is a surprisingly good source, provided the skin isn't too damaged. Just be sure to wear gloves—wild animals can carry all sorts of stuff you don't want to deal with.
If you have friends who own snakes, ask them to save their sheds for you. They're usually happy to give them away. You can also contact local reptile rescues or breeders. Sometimes they have animals that pass away from natural causes, and they might be willing to let you use the skin for taxidermy rather than letting it go to waste.
It's a weird, wonderful hobby that connects you to the natural world in a very hands-on way. Once you finish your first piece of snake skin taxidermy, you'll probably find yourself scanning the ground every time you go for a hike, looking for that next beautiful pattern to preserve.